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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might foresee familiar high-end names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at fancy establishments. “I feel truly proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary achievement.